Using the correct needle for the job

Using the wrong type of sewing machine needle is one of the most common mistakes when sewing. It can lead to needle breakage, difficulty working with the chosen fabric and poor stitch quality. Below I’ve outlined the different types of needles available and the fabrics they should be used with. It is also important to use a good quality thread.

Sewing Machine Needle Types

The first thing to know is that sewing machines needles are standardised. They are compatible across a wide range of machines. It is the type and size that can a bit bewildering at first. I’ve listed the most popular needles and the techniques and fabrics they're used for.

Universal needles

As the name suggests, universal needles are the most commonly used needle. They can be used with woven fabrics, synthetics and some knit fabrics, although check the other needle types outlined below for specific types of knit fabric. The finer needles are mostly used for lightweight fabrics. Larger sizes are used on medium to heavyweight fabrics. Polyester/cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle.

Ball point needles

Ball point needles have a more rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. This makes ball point needles ideal for working with rib knits, interlock, cotton knits, fleece, double knit and generally most knit fabrics because it prevents them from running or laddering as a result of stitching. Polyester and polyester/cotton blend threads are best for use with ball point needles and finer threads should be used for finer needles.

Stretch needles

A stretch needle has what is called a 'scarf' which allows extra room for the hook to pass close by and prevents skipped stitches making it ideal for use with fabrics such as Lycra, power net, two way stretch knits, silk jersey, spandex and highly elasticated synthetic fabrics or indeed elastic itself. Polyester or cotton wrapped polyester threads should be used. Stretch fabrics are renowned for being more difficult to work with and choosing the right needle is crucial to achieving a good end result.

Sharps needles

If you're a quilter working with several layers of cotton and wadding or you're working with densely woven fabrics such as silk and micro fibre a sharps needle should be used. These needles are designed to work with several layers of fabric thanks to a stronger shaft which helps to avoid bent or broken needles and a sharp point which enables it to penetrate through the fabric and produce smooth buttonholes. A short round threading eye also gives extra strength during sewing.

Quilting needles

Quilting needles are also designed to be used with several layers of fabric and wadding thanks to a reinforced shaft, however, they are much shorter in length than the sharps needle to allow quilters to achieve quick and even stitching. Beginners will most likely find a smaller needle such as a size 7 or 8 easier to use whilst more experienced quilters often choose a larger option.

Jeans needles

Used for sewing denim but these needles are also best for other densely woven fabrics such as heavy twill, canvas and heavy linens often used for workwear. Whereas stretch and ball point needles are designed not to cut the fabric jeans needles have a very sharp point and a stronger shank to prevent needle bending or breakage and push through the heavy fabric. Threads such as synthetic or blends, 100% polyester, heavier top stitching threads and cotton wrapped polyester should be chosen when working with these needles and fabrics.

Leather needles

Leather needles are often known as chisel point needles thanks to a point that looks and acts like a chisel when in use. These needles should be used with genuine leather, suede and difficult to sew projects, but should not be used with PU imitation leather, ultra suede or synthetic suede since the characteristics of these fabrics are quite different to their real counterparts.

Metafil needles

If you like to sew with pretty metallic or rayon, a metafil needle is ideal when sewing or embroidering on woven or knitted fabrics. Metallic needles have an extra large eye meaning these fancy threads feed through more freely and won't shred or split as a result of the sewing motion. If you ever struggle to thread your needle a metallic needle would be a good buy because it is also appropriate for general sewing and is much easier to thread due to the larger eye.

Embroidery needles

Embroidery needles are designed with a wider eye to allow threads such as rayon, polyester or cotton machine embroidery threads to pass freely and easily when embroidering. Missed stitches can often occur when machine embroidering thanks to the fabric flexing up and down rapidly as a result of the fast moving embroidery stitch. Embroidery needles have a pontoon scarf with an oversize bump which reduces the chance of this happening by reducing the amount of movement in the fabric.

Top stitch needles

Top stitch needles have an extra sharp point which will pierce all types of fabric easily and the large eye allows thick top stitching thread to be used.

Twin needles and Triple needles

These needles are used for pin tucking and decorative stitches and need to be used at a reduced speed. They are not compatible with all machines so always check your manual before using.

Wing needles

Used in conjunction with the special stitch options on your machine, wing needles will produce holes in the fabric to replicate drawn thread work. Fabrics made from natural fibres such as cotton should be used with these needles.

Quick Reference Chart

Sewing Machine Needle Type Needle Size Fabric Type

Universal needles 70 (10) Voile, sheers, delicate silk

80 (12) Shirtings, poplin, rayon, light wool

90 (14) Medium - heavy, calico, linen

100 (16) Heavy fabric, upholstery, bag making

110 (18) Extra heavy fabric, upholstery

Sharps needles 70 (10) Voile, microfibre

80 (12) Shirtings, microfibre, patchwork

90 (14) All Sharps produced perfect top stitching

Ball point needles 70 (10) Light knits, tricot

80 (12) Interlock, Lacoste

90 (14) Medium heavy knits, double knit

Stretch needles 75 (11) Light lycra, elasticised fabrics

90 (14) Elastic, heavier lycra, elasticised fabrics

Jeans needles 90 (14) Denim, tightly woven fabrics

100 (16) Heavy denim, vinyl, furnishings

Leather needles 90 (14) For all leather and suede

100 (16) Do not use on synthetic leather

Metafil needles 80 (12) Decorative sewing on various fabrics

Quilting needles 80 (12) Quilts made from cotton, wool or polyester with wadding centre

Embroidery needles 75 (11) Decorative sewing on lightweight fabrics

90 (14) Decorative sewing on heavier fabrics

Twin needles Various Decorative sewing on most fabrics

A good quality thread should always be used for that perfect stitch. I recommend the Gutterman range.

What Do the Size Numbers Mean on Sewing Machine Needles?

You may be wondering what the size number such as 80/12 or 110/18 on sewing machine needles mean. Of the two numbers, one is the European size and one is the American size. From thinnest to thickest, the European sizes range from 60 to 110, whereas the American sizes range from 8 to 18.

Generally, an 80/12 needle is used for dressmaking .

How Often Should I Change My Needle?

I generally recommend changing your needle after every project. I also recommend giving the needle a good visual inspection if your machine has jammed. Jamming can result in the needle bending, which can lead to unexpected results such as poor stitch quality. If your machine is making an unusual thumping sound as the needle penetrates the fabric, then you definitely need to change the needle.

Fitting a New Needle

To fit a new needle the first thing I recommend is to pop a piece of paper under the foot. Then, when loosening the needle screw, there is no danger of the old needle dropping inside the machine. Once the old needle is out, the new needle will only fit in the correct orientation due to the shank design. The flat side of the shank should face towards the rear of the sewing machine (this may be different on much older machines) Make sure you push the new needle up as far as it will go before tightening the needle screw. If you don't you may get poor stitch quality, the needle could strike the bobbin case or your needle threader could be damaged (if your machine has one).